still on the move

Our stop at Beaufort, SC was extended by several days at Terri was laid low with some intestinal bug so we did not extensively tour the town as we did on the way down. We did walk to the “Big Chill” house to see the site of our generational film. Note to self: Got to rent that movie for another look. From Beaufort we got a late start and ran to the North Edisto River, close to the site where we helped Mike G on the way down unground his boat. This time with lessons learned from the incident in the Duplin River we anchor well off the shore and in fact we were not set upon by hoards of no-see-ums as you see we were still in the marshes of SC. However, when we woke up in the early morning a thick fog had descended and the visibility was less than ¼ of a mile. We could not see any of the shore that surrounded us, but it eventually burned off and we were off, only an hour later than usual. We got to our next destination (Wappoo Creek) early enough to take a hike to the grocery store to get needed groceries. Wappoo Creek is just outside Charleston, SC. Grocery shopping is a major consideration as we move along the ICW. We have to be attuned to the presence of stops that have grocery store within easy access and we have to do it with some frequency since we can’t store fresh foods for long because the ice locker doesn’t keep stuff cool as the home frig. Terri has manage to provide us with a rich diet in spite of no refrigeration (except for ice) and an alcohol stove to cook on and a galley with about 6 square inches of counter space. With regard to our diet, we are NOT camping. All said and done I am sure that she will be glad to get back in her kitchen at home.

We woke once again in Wappoo Creek to a thick fog, again unable to see the banks of the creek we were on. But again we waited it out and got a later start. However, when we entered Charleston Harbor we were greeted with a large dense fog bank that sat on the harbor. Now Charleston Harbor is a major seaport with lots of big fellas going in and out, fog or no fog. We could hear them announcing themselves on the radio. All of my dead reckoning skills we put to use and we felt our way outside the major shipping channels to our ICW mark. About half way there the fog thinned and finally burnt off. After passing Charleston we passed along Price Creek. Since Terri’s maiden name is Price and her genealogy traces back to South Carolina we made the assumption that this may be named after some relative. Moreover, as we were transiting the Creek we passed two houses on islands at the creek side (see pictures) which we assigned as the Price homesteads.

Our travels took us on to the North Santee River where we again put into practice anchoring well off the shore away from the marshes, no bugs. This time we awoke to a clear morning, sun shinning and it was on to Georgetown for another small grocery stop and a search for an auto parts store where I could buy diesel oil because it was time to change the oil. This is something that needs doing every 100 hours of engine running time, with a filter change every other oil change. Yanny the Yanmar must be kept happy and thus far other than the fuel filter problem has performed flawlessly, knock wood. While this trip could have been made with the Atomic four gas engine, and has been by the previous owner, I am glad that I installed the diesel. It has more power that is delivered to the water and burns about ½ the fuel that the A4 burned. Last but not least, the A4 was looong in the tooth.

Georgetown was a drive-by stop since we got our stuff and hit the road (ah water) continuing on to the cypress swamps of the upper Waccamaw River to anchor in Bull Creek. It is beautiful country with the tall cypresses coming right down to the waters edge. A peaceful anchorage far from civilization.

From here it was on to the Shallotte River where we stayed on the way down, but this time we knew how to avoid the shoal that sits in the middle of the river and anchored for the night. We are in “horse to the barn” mode on the trip home. We are not lingering as we did on the way down. It’s long days with early morning departures. Based on our present track record we should get back to MD in the first week in May.

After a overnight stop at the Carolina Beach State Marina (a bargain at $20/night with free electric) to do some needed laundry, we left headed for an anchorage called Mile Hammock but the winds were not cooperating. It began to blow a near steady 20 knots with 30 knot gusts right in our faces so we diverted after going only 14 miles to Wrightsville Beach once again to sit out high winds. As you may recall we spend two days here on the way down when the tropical storm Noel was raging out in the ocean. We hope to get out of here tomorrow if the winds settle down a bit. We are the only boat anchored in this very large anchorage unlike when we came down in the fall where we could hardly find a spot to put down an anchor. Now we have it all to ourselves.

Out of Florida

We’re out of Fla and now in Savanna. It took us two days to traverse Georgia and get to this lovely city that is on the Georgia/South Carolina border. We left Fernandina in a dense fog and felt our way along until it lifted. We passed the submarine base at King’s Bay but this time we saw no submarines. We had an uneventful trip until we reached the approach to St. Andrews Sound going down the Cumberland River. We were treated to the effects of a strong wind against an equally strong tidal outflow. It was kinda ugly going for about 3 miles with steep and close together wave which anyone from the Chesapeake will recognize. One we got out into St. Andrews Sound proper, it all settled down and it was smooth sailing. We continued on bypassing Brunswick Georgia and finally stopped as the sun was setting in the Duplin River for the night. The cruising guide advised us that the creek was used by shrimpers and that we should surely display an anchor light. I took this advise a step further and anchored close to the shore. Now mind you, the Duplin is a channel that meanders through the marshes, which stretch for miles around. Since it was later we put in the screens, ate dinner and crashed. I woke up early the next morning prepared my coffee and stepped out on deck to savor it as the sun rose over the marshes. I was not out there two seconds when the swarms hit. The boat was covered with millions of no-sums and I was on the menu. Swat, swat, swat. At this point I could not g back below behind the protection of the screens for in the process I would have brought with me at least ½ of the million of these wretched creatures. So, it was lift the anchor and flee time. I think I set some sort of record for getting the anchor up and getting underway. Flee we did, but 6 knts is not fast enough to outrun the speediest of these bugs so they continued their feast with me as main course until the wind picked up. Lesson learned—do not anchor close to land in the marshes.

Our next stop was the Herb river, which is a stones throw from the town of Thunderbolt where we were to stay at the Thunderbolt Marina while visiting Savanna. You see it is extremely difficult to visit Savanna by boat as there are no safe anchorages. The currents rage in the river front of Savanna, changing directions with the tides. So boats visiting Savanna stay in thunderbolt, which is about 5 miles from Savanna on another river.

Savanna is truly a beautiful city. They have taken historic preservation to a new level. You couldn’t throw a stone in that city and not hit a beautifully restored piece of historic architecture. We took one of those motor coach tours of the city with a truly entertaining and knowledgeable guide. Though a drive-by tour, it hit all the hot spots of Savanna and later we hit on foot the most interesting to us. As I always do where ever we go we hit a local brew pub to sample the brews. I was treated to an exceptional IPA that was hopped wonderfully, smooth with a palatable citrusy taste. It was voted as one of the best of the trip by yours truly.

We left Savanna on a dreary, cold and rainy day heading for Beaufort, SC. Terri extolled the virtues of this town on the trip down.